Body Questions
- What sequence should I replace the floor, trunk floor and inner quarters on my rotted '57 convertible? - Dwayne
- I'm interested in a 1969 Camaro coupe body. How does your build compare to that done by Dynacorn?
- I'm in the process of restoring a '57 Chevy 2-door sedan that will require some extensive sheet metal replacement -- including the full floor, both rear quarters, tail pan, fin panels, and possibly the inner quarters. My plan was to go with the pre-widene
- I have one of your new '57 2-door sedan bodies. Would you mind telling me the 57 model frames that will fit the 2-door sedan body?
- I have a 1957 Chevy 2-door post. It was a race car most of its life and I'd like to convert it to a convertible/roadster. I know the door line on the post is straight across, rather than gently sloping, like the bel air and convertible.
- Do you offer any special order modifications for the 1968 Camaro? I was thinking along the lines of shaving drip rails and filling side marker lights.
- Do you have bodies in stock?
Q: What sequence should I replace the floor, trunk floor and inner quarters on my rotted '57 convertible? - Dwayne
Replacing both the floors and the inner quarters is a big job. Before you remove the floor and trunk floor, you should build a simple x-brace fixture in the main inner floor area and brace front-to-rear between the base of the A&B-pillars (hinge pillar and rear door jamb) to keep your door gaps from moving. You should build yourself a simple fixture on the existing body before you cut the original inner quarters out so you can locate the new ones in the same spot. I would built it to have several touch/clamp points at the upper and lower rear and at the b-pillar (rear edge of doors) area. The fixture should tie into your a-pillars (front door pillars) and the rear of the top structure (on a closed car). Also be sure it maintains the width of the inner quarter at the trunk opening. All of this is best completed with the body on the frame and not on a rotisserie. Build your fixtures with the body on the frame, then remove it from the frame when cutting everything out. Replace the inner quarters with the body removed from the frame Then place your floor and trunk floor on the frame and sit the body down over it until all land in the right spot and weld away!Once your fixtures are in place and will not move, remove the floor, trunk floor and inner quarters. Install the inner quarters first, then the front floor then the trunk floor. It is a good idea to re-hang your doors and deck lid as soon as you can to check and correct any door or trunk gap issues. Best of luck!
Q: I'm interested in a 1969 Camaro coupe body. How does your build compare to that done by Dynacorn?
Good and often asked question! We like to think our bodies are much superior to those offered by Dynacorn (Dii), and based on customer feedback, it is true. First, our bodies are entirely built in the US by US workers. Dii assembles their bodies in Taiwan. We are much fussier about fit and finish than the assemblers of the Dii bodies. We are all car guys, so we like for the end product to be something that we would want to build into a finished car.
The other major difference is the exterior skins. We use only 18 gauge quarters, doors, deck lid, rear panels etc. from AMD. The Dii cars use much lighter weight 20 gauge skin panels.
Q: I'm in the process of restoring a '57 Chevy 2-door sedan that will require some extensive sheet metal replacement -- including the full floor, both rear quarters, tail pan, fin panels, and possibly the inner quarters. My plan was to go with the pre-widene
The main floor has a vertical "pinchweld" flange (points up) along the entire edge that attaches to the top of the outer rockers in the door area and to a similar "pinchweld" flange on the bottom of the inner quarters in the quarter window area. This attachment is exactly the same as for hardtop and convertible. You can simply stitch weld this flange from the top with your wire feed welder. The trunk floor has a vertical "pinchweld" flange (points down) that attaches to the lower flat walls of the trunk floor/wheelhouse areas.
The 2-door sedan quarter tops are more complex. The quarters were actually installed on the body before the drip rails and top skin were installed. First the roof (top) structure, then the quarters (there is a 1" extension on the upper quarters you cannot see hidden by the top skin/drip rails), the the drip rails and last the top skin. If you are careful, you can weld the new quarter to the underside of the drip rail flange and hide the repair with seam sealer without disturbing the original sips and top!
Q: I have one of your new '57 2-door sedan bodies. Would you mind telling me the 57 model frames that will fit the 2-door sedan body?
Any 1957 2-door sedan, 4-door sedan, 2 or 4-door station wagon, Nomad or 2-door hardtop will work fine. Avoid the 4-door hardtop and convertible frames.
If you use a 2-door hardtop frame, there will be two extra mounts on the frame just behind the B-pillars that will need to be removed (or ignored).
Q: I have a 1957 Chevy 2-door post. It was a race car most of its life and I'd like to convert it to a convertible/roadster. I know the door line on the post is straight across, rather than gently sloping, like the bel air and convertible.
Often asked question! If you want to build a true convertible with roll-up quarter windows and a convertible top rack, you'll need to purchase one of our "Clipster" bodies with quarters CL57C-12. The entire rear body tub on the convertible is unique thus your sedan body tub cannot be used. The Clipster allows you to use your sedan cowl and firewall and convert it to convertible using the windshield frame included with the Clipster.
You can also use your sedan chassis under your new convertible body after upgrading it with our tubular frame kit TFK-567 and frame brackets SFB-567
Q: Do you offer any special order modifications for the 1968 Camaro? I was thinking along the lines of shaving drip rails and filling side marker lights.
Filling the side markers is easy - we use 1967 quarters instead of 1968. We have done this for several customers to date. We have been asked to shave the drip rails on several Camaro orders but have not been able to offer this. The top skin actually overhangs the roof structure by 1/4" to 3/8" (hangs down) so the edge/gutter portion of the top skin actually attaches to the drip rail fairly far down/away from the top structure. Shaving the drips can be done, but that is heavy custom work best handled by your bodyman.
Q: Do you have bodies in stock?
Most often, no. We usually build all bodies to order with anywhere from a 30-day to a 120-day lead time depending on time of year and parts availability. Rarely, a single component part may be unavailable for up to 6-months which can cause additional delays in body builds. The best time to order a body is during the summer months - this is when we have fewer orders and can process new orders more quickly. Our busiest time is November - March.